Panlong Ancient Road (West): The Steep Karakoram Highway Side of the Pamir's Coiled Dragon

The West side averages 7.5% over 13.0 km (8.1 mi), gaining 977 m (3,207 ft) from 3,289 m (10,790 ft) to 4,264 m (13,990 ft). There is no warm-up: the first three kilometers hold 5.8-6.4% on long straights up the open slope.

The climb's core runs from km 3 to km 12, where nine consecutive kilometers average between 7.4% and 9.3%. Kilometers 6-10 are the crux - 9.1%, 9.2%, 8.7% and 9.3% back to back, all between 3,700 and 4,070 m. The few hairpins on this side sit in this upper half, mostly between km 7 and 12, and they offer little relief. Kilometers 10-12 ease slightly to 7.6% before the final kilometer flattens to 3.9% across the summit ridge.

The steepest 0.5 km averages 11.4%, the steepest 1 km 10.0%, the steepest 2 km 9.6%, the steepest 5 km 9.0% and the steepest 10 km 8.2%. FIETS score: 10.6, making this the harder of the two sides despite being 7.4 km shorter.

Altitude: This climb starts higher than the summit of the Stelvio (2,757 m) and finishes at 4,264 m (13,990 ft). The CDC notes that at 3,050 m the air already delivers only about 69% of the oxygen pressure of sea level, that maximal exercise capacity stays lower at altitude even after acclimatization, and that travelers should stick to mild exercise for the first 48 hours. Above 3,000 m it advises raising sleeping altitude by no more than about 500 m per night. Tashkurgan sits at 3,090 m, so arriving from Kashgar is already a big jump - plan two or three easy days in town before attempting this, and turn around if a headache, nausea or dizziness sets in.

Gear: Nine straight kilometers at 7-9% in thin air call for your lowest gearing - think compact crankset with a 32-34 tooth cog or bigger. Pace by breathing, not by power or speed. Carry a wind jacket and gloves for the exposed summit ridge, and strong sun protection.

Provisions: Fill bottles and buy food in Tashkurgan - there are kiosks at the entrance and seasonal coffee and snack stalls at the summit viewpoints, but no shops on the climb. Before you go, check current conditions on the pass with our Weather tool.

Getting there: Kashgar is the gateway. Kashgar Laining International Airport (KHG) has flights across China, and Kashgar railway station is served by trains from Urumqi, about 1,475 km (917 mi) away. From Kashgar the G314 Karakoram Highway climbs roughly 290 km (180 mi) to Tashkurgan past Karakul Lake and 7,546 m Muztagh Ata. Tashkurgan Khunjerab Airport (HQL), China's westernmost, opened in December 2022 at 3,258 m with flights from Urumqi of about 2.5 hours - quick, but it drops you straight onto the plateau.

Permits: Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County lies in a border management zone next to Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan. On top of a Chinese visa, foreign visitors need a border area permit (边境管理区通行证) naming Tashkurgan, usually obtained in Kashgar before heading south. Passports are checked at several checkpoints along the G314, starting around Bulunkou, so keep them handy. Rules change, so confirm current requirements with a licensed Kashgar travel agency before you book.

Base: Tashkurgan town has a full range of hotels and Tajik guesthouses, plus the Stone City ruins - the capital of the ancient kingdom of Qiepantuo, visited by the monk Xuanzang on his return from India. Local tradition holds that he crossed this very ridge. Fuel up in town; there are no stations on the Panlong road. To reach the start, head south on the G314 toward Khunjerab for about 23 km (14 mi) and turn east at the Wacha sign.