Col d'Aubisque (Ferrières) Bike Climb - PJAMM Cycling

22.6
PDI
13.4 mi
DISTANCE
4,154 ft
GAINED
5.3 %
AVG. GRADE

FULL CLIMB STATS

INTRO

Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières is the eastern, two-pass approach to one of the Pyrenees' great Tour de France climbs. From Ferrières the route covers 21.6 km (13.4 mi) and gains 1266 m (4,154 ft) at a 5.3% average, topping out at the 1709 m (5,607 ft) pass beneath the Pic de Ger. It's really two climbs in one: an 11.9 km (7.4 mi) haul up the Ouzom valley to the Col du Soulor (1474 m / 4,836 ft) at about 7.6%, then a spectacular balcony road across the Cirque du Litor to the Aubisque.

The Ouzom valley is the quietest way up to the Soulor - a pastoral, wooded side valley past Arbéost and through the Tartas narrows into open summer pastures. From the Soulor the D918 dips into the Cirque du Litor and carves across its cliffs through two short, narrow rock tunnels, with the valley you've just climbed falling away below.

The Aubisque was first crossed by the Tour de France in 1910 and has featured more than 70 times since, among the three most-visited climbs in Tour history, most recently in 2022. This corniche is also where, descending toward the Soulor in the 1951 Tour, yellow jersey Wim van Est - the first Dutchman to wear it - slid off the road and fell some 70 m into a ravine. He survived, and a memorial plaque unveiled in 2001, with van Est there, marks the spot.

PLAN YOUR ROUTE

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From Ferrières at 555 m (1,820 ft), the climb covers 21.6 km (13.4 mi) and gains 1266 m (4,154 ft) at an average of 5.3%, including about 119 m (392 ft) of descending along the way.

The first 11.9 km (7.4 mi), to the Col du Soulor, average about 7.6% and are the heart of the climb. The opening kilometer out of Ferrières averages 9.3%, kilometers 2 through 7 settle into a 5.6-8.2% range, and kilometers 8 and 9 are the steepest sustained pair on the route at 9.0% and 9.2%.

From the Soulor the road drops about 110 m (361 ft) over the next 2 km into the Cirque du Litor, then climbs the final 7.6 km (4.7 mi) at a much friendlier 4.6%, stiffening to 6-8% over the last 3.5 km to the pass.

The steepest kilometer averages 9.2%, the steepest 0.5 km 10.0%, the steepest 2 km 9.0%, and the steepest 5 km 8.4%.
Roadway: The D126 from Ferrières to the Soulor is a narrow, winding valley road - wilder than the main approaches, with a surface that's rougher in places. From the Soulor, the D918 across the Cirque du Litor is a cliff-hugging corniche with two short, narrow rock tunnels and big drops off the edge. The Soulor-Aubisque section closes every winter and typically reopens between late May and June; vehicles over 3.5 t are banned on the corniche. Check the Hautes-Pyrénées and Pyrénées-Atlantiques road-status pages (Inforoute 64 for the Aubisque side) before an early- or late-season ride.

Traffic: Light on the Ouzom valley side - it's the calmest of the approaches to the Soulor. Traffic picks up once the D918 from Arrens joins at the Soulor, with tourist cars and motorcyclists crossing between the two passes on summer weekends.

Parking: Ferrières is a small village of about a hundred residents, so parking is informal - find a spot in the village near the start, leaving farm and residents' access clear.
Provisions: Top up before you start. The Col du Soulor, 11.9 km in, has seasonal cafés and restaurants and is the natural refuel stop, and there are two cafés at the Col d'Aubisque itself.

Gear: Compact gearing is plenty for most riders - the grade never averages more than about 9% for a full kilometer. Pack a windproof and arm warmers: the corniche and the upper slopes are fully exposed, and it can be much colder at 1709 m than in the valley. A small rear light is a sensible addition for the two tunnels on the Litor corniche.
Before heading out on any cycling adventure check out our Things to Bring on a Cycling Trip and use our interactive check list to ensure you don't forget anything.
Ferrières sits in the Ouzom valley, a quiet pastoral valley that's easy to overlook between the busier Ossau and Argelès valleys. It's also the start of our Col de Spandelles (Ferrières) climb, the narrow back road that made its Tour de France debut in 2022, so it makes a good base for a two-col day.

If you have time at the Soulor, the Val d'Azun on the far side is worth a look - the D918 drops through Arrens-Marsous toward Argelès-Gazost (see our Col du Soulor (Arrens) page). On the Aubisque, the giant Tour de France bicycles and the André Bach memorial stone are covered on our Col d'Aubisque (Laruns) page, along with the descent to Eaux-Bonnes and Laruns. See what else is nearby, or build a custom route from here, with our Routes in the Area tool.

For those looking to stay in the area we would recommend the Pyrenees Cycling Lodge. Located in the beautiful medieval village of Saint Savin and hosted by Mark & Niamh, the Lodge is run by cyclists for cyclists. It is a great location for any cycling adventure in the Pyrenees with several renowned climbs within 100km of the property and 6 Tour de France climbs within 15km. Visit their website or contact them directly at pyreneescyclinglodge@gmail.com .

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CLIMB SUMMARY

Cycling Col d'Aubisque - cyclist at col sign with bike - John Johnson, PJAMM cycling

Summit monument -- Col d’Aubisque.

Included in more TdFs than any climb other than Tourmalet.

Northern Approach (        Ferrières)

Col d’Aubisque can be accessed from the north, beginning the climb in Ferrières.  This climb is a lengthy 21.9 km and goes by way of Col du Soulor, which we pass at km 12.2.

cycling Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières - Col du Soulor sign

Climb begins in Ferrières, 12.2 km from Col du Soulor, and 22 from Aubisque.

Bike climb Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières - Col du Soulor km sign

First Col signs for Aubisque don’t begin until 7.5 km from the Col at km 15.

Cycling Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières - roadway, tunnel and cliff between Col du Soulor and Col d' Aubisque

This route includes the same harrowing four km as from Argeles Gazost.

Bike ride Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières - giant bikes, horses and cyclists at top of col

At the top.

TOUR DE FRANCE HISTORY

TOP 10 MOST FREQUENT CLIMBS OF THE TOUR DE FRANCE

AND 10 FAMOUS ONES AFTER THAT

Climb name

Mountain Range

Times Featured in Tour de France

Most recent

First included

Col du Tourmalet

Pyrenees

88

2021

1910

Col d'Aspin

Pyrenees

73

2022

1910

Col d'Aubisque

Pyrenees

73

2022

1910

Col de Peyresourde

Pyrenees

68

2021

1910

Col du Galibier

Alps

63

2022

1911

Col de Portet d'Aspet

Pyrenees

58

2021

1910

Col des Aravis

Alps

41

2020

1911

Col d'Izoard

Alps

36

2019

1922

Col de Vars

Alps

35

2019

1922

Col d'Allos

Alps

34

2015

1911

Alpe d'Huez

Alps

32

2022

1952

Col du Télégraphe

Alps

31

2022

1911

Col de la Madeleine

Alps

29

2020

1969

Col de la Croix de Fer

Alps

21

2022

1947

Mont Ventoux

Alps

18

2021

1951

Col du Soulor

Pyrenees

16

2019

1912

Col du Glandon

Alps

14

2015

1947

Puy de Dome

Massif Central

12

1988

1952

Luz Ardiden

Pyrenees

9

2021

1985

Col de l'Iseran

Alps

8

2019

1938

Col d’Aubisque is tied with Col d’Aspin for all-time second most TdF appearances.

The Col d’Aubisque bike climb is one of the most famous climbs in the French Pyrenees and France.  Aubisque first appeared in the Tour de France in 1910, and as of 2022 has been included 73 times.   The climb was included twelve years straight after its post-war inauguration in 1947, and has been a stage finish three times, which is fairly significant for a pass.  For the 24 years between 1947 and 1970, the Aubisque was included in the Tour all but three years.  The pass was also included once (2016) in the Vuelta a Espan֘a.  

 

Stage 10 TdF 1911.  

Photo:  bikeraceinfo.com (an exceptional resource for all Grand Tours).

We rode this route in 2011 and 2018 . . . guess what . . . still the same. 👍

Same cliff, same mountain, same tunnel (as pictured above) over 100 years later.

Aubisque is our choice for Top TdF Nostalgic Climb.

The descent from Eaux Bonnes (western approach) towards Col du Soulor was and is a dangerous route, it’s a narrow road with sheer cliffs. On Stage 13, July 17, 1951, this hazardous stretch of road was the scene of one of the most horrific and famous crashes in Tour history.  The unlikely leader on this day was the pleasant and good natured Dutchman Wim van Est.  This Tour included pure and true cycling legends Gino Bartali, Fausto Coppi, and Louison Bobet, and, while an accomplished pursuit racer, van Est was never expected to compete for the overall classification in the greatest of the Grand Tours.  Nonetheless,  on July 26, during Stage 12, van Est, who started the day over nine minutes behind leader Roger Levêque, broke away and won the stage, finding himself in the yellow jersey by :02:29.

Cycling Col d'Aubisque  from Argeles Gazost - aerial drone photo from ravine of roadway and tunnel

A deadly road.

However, winning the flat Stage 12 by using his specialty sprint to gain time on the peloton is one thing, but a sprinter holding a slim lead over the Aubisque would be quite another.  And so it was that Van Est had lost his lead as he summited the mighty Aubisque and set about to regain some of what he had lost.  However, the narrow and windy road descending from Col d’Aubisque towards Col du Soulor is a poor choice for downhill heroics.  And so it was that fell and tumbled 70 meters down and nearly sheer mountainside. It was not just the fall that remains in our memories from this day, but the way Van Est was extricated from his predicament and that he was still alive and able to climb up the mountain back to the road under his own power.

Photo:  Edwin Seldenthus as published in velopeloton.com.

Here is  amazing YouTube footage of the rescue of Wim van Est.  He was helped up the mountainside by a chain of tires strung together by spectators and his support team.  Still alive and unbelievably without major injury, Van Est insisted on continuing the race, but was convinced by wiser authority to go to the hospital.

Making lemonade out of lemons (or $ out of near death?) -- when he flew off the Aubisque cliff, Van Est fortuitously (in hindsight anyway) was wearing a team issued Pontiac wrist watch which became the launching point for Van Est focused advertising campaign with this slogan:  “Seventy meters deep I dropped, my heart stood still but my Pontiac never stopped.”

All the greats have raced on the Aubisque

Louison Bobet, Stage 11 1954 TdF (champion 1953-1955)

 Photo:  bikeraceinfo.com

The Aubiaue has a rich TdF history that began with its very first appearance in The Tour.  For the 1910 Tour,  legendary TdF organizer, Henri Desgrance, decided to include Peyresourde, Aspin, Tourmalet and Aubisque climbs, as well as three smaller ones on Stage 10 (insane!).  The first rider over Col du Tourmalet on July 21, 1910 was eventual 1910 tour winner frenchman Octave Lapize.  Lapize was overtaken on the next climb (Col d’Aubisque) and as he reached its summit he unleashed on tour organizers  - this is not disputed - what he said, however, is variously reported as either some or all of the following:  “murderers,” “assassins,” and/or “criminals.” The french version is most commonly reported asVous êtes des assassins!" which translates to “You are murderers.”   Sadly, Lapize was to die seven years later from injuries sustained when his fighter plane was shot down during WWI.  

Octave Lapize -- the first rider (hiker?) over Tourmalet, 1910.

Photo:  Cycling Passion, Octave Lapize walks over the Col du Tourmalet.

Bike ride Col d'Aubisque from Ferrières - giant bikes, horses and cyclists at top of col

At the top.