Col de L'iseran via Bonneval-sur-Arc Cycling Guide: Stunning Views from Atop Europe

Col de L'Iseran - one of the most spectacular cycling climbs in the world.

Photo by PJAMM contributor Ard Oostra, Switzerland.

Col de L'Iseran, located in the French Alps, is a magnificent cycling climb.

This is the highest paved pass in Europe and has been included seven  times in the Tour de France as of 2019.

Softer, yet equally gorgeous scenery on the southern approach.

Col de L'Iseran is part of the Route des Grandes Alpes, a tourist itinerary that begins in Thonon-les-Bains and travels over many of the most spectacular passes in France and Europe, including Col de L'Iseran, Galibier, d’Izoard, and Bonette; alternate route includes Croix de Fer and Madeleine.

Col de L'Iseran is #30 in Hugh Merrick’s book The Great Motor Highways of the Alps, in which he writes that “the impression that emerges, rather like the stunning vistas of the Chalanson and Albaron glaciers as one nears the summit from the southern side, is of a feat of road building that was also in part a vanity project.”

Aerial view of Col de L'Iseran

Photo: Carreteras Peligrosas

Is Col de L'Iseran truly the highest paved pass in Europe?

Yes.  While Pico de Veleta, Spain, is the higher “road” at 3,357 m / 11,013’, it ends in a dead end so is not a pass.  Even though Cima de la Bonette (2,685 m / 3,809’) is technically a pass, it is just a through road to the peak and not the functional “pass.”  Thus, Col de L'Iseran, with its functional col/pass at 2,633 m / 8,638’ can truly claim “highest paved pass in Europe.”

Learn from our mistakes in ascending Col de L'Iseran.

These two climbs are great examples of why it is important to actually do the climb (or have credible data from those who have) before providing input on them to the public.  We misfired on each of these climbs, one to our disadvantage and one to our advantage

How to Cycle Col de L'Iseran from Bonneval-sur-Arc

(this col can and should be cycled from both sides)

Misfire #1 (to our advantage) - Southern Approach: We started in Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis, 18 kilometers below where the true climb begins in Bonneval-sur-Arc.  Unlike the extra miles on the north side that we do not recommend, the extra 18 kilometers tacked onto the true climb by starting in Lanslebourg is highly recommended because the views, surroundings and scenery over those 12 kilometers is simply exquisite.  The true and shorter climb is 13.4 km / 1,302 m ’ / 7.6% and this is where the kilometer markers for the climb begin.

Start of climb at Bonneval-Sur-Arc.

Roadway is seen middle-left of picture.

Narrow road and sheer cliff to the left around 3 kilometers from the Col.

KM markers lead us up the mountain -- above is last marker.

Left:  Chapel Notre-Dame de Toute Prudence.

Right:  Store.

Stark yet magnificent views on the north.

Was Col de L'Iseran included in the Tour de France?

Col de L'Iseran first appeared in the TdF in 1938 and as of 2022 had been included a total of eight times in the great race.  Wikipedia provides a nice table of Tour appearances for this climb:

Tour de France History

TOP 10 MOST FREQUENT CLIMBS OF THE TOUR DE FRANCE

AND 10 FAMOUS ONES AFTER THAT

Col de L’Iseran has been the highest point in the tour each year it has been featured.

©  PJAMMCycing.com

Top 5 high points of the Tour de France

L’Iseran has also been the highest point in 8 TdFs

Also see Top 10 Highest Points of the TdF

Col de L'Iseran has only been included in the Tour de France eight times in the 80 years between 1938 and 2022.  The TdF takes what is otherwise a somewhat eerie and desolate -- although quite scenic -- place, and turns it into a tourist attraction with a carnival atmosphere.  First included in the Tour in 1938, Gino Bartali exclaimed that he won the race on his descent of Col de Vars, but saved it on the descent off the L'Iseran.  

Gino Bartali, winner 1938 Tour de France

Bartali crossed L'Iseran in Stage 14

Down 00:01:05 at the beginning of the stage, after a heroic descent of L'Iseran he finished up 00:05:18.

Photo:  LearningHistory.com

Bartali (along with Federico Bahamontes) has more Grand Tour wins (9) than anyone in history and the TdF (1938, 1948), Giro (1936, 1937, 1946; mountain classification a record seven times, three more than anyone in history, Giro wasn’t held five years from 1941-1945), Milan-San Remo (4) and Giro di Lombardia (3).

It was on Col de L'Iseran that legendary cyclist Louison Bobet’s career ended.  Bobet retired at the summit of L'Iseran on July 14, 1959, having been victorious in the TdF three years running from 1953-55. Bobet was the first rider to win the Tour de France in three consecutive years.

Louison Bobet on Col de L'Iseran 1959 Tour de France

Bobet retired on L'Iseran July 14, 1959 after three TdF victories.

Photo:  Walter Vermeulen flicker

July 9, 1963 is notable more for the brutal conditions on the L'Iseran than for the race stage itself (won by undisputed King of the Mountains Fernando Manzaneque -- winner mountain classification TdF six times, Giro d’Italia once, and Vuelta de Espana twice).  Due to impassable snow pack at the top of Col de L'Iseran, the tour came within a whisker of a tedious and long reroute around Albertville and Bourg Saint Maurice of the 202 km stage from Grenoble to the scheduled finish in Val d'Isère.  However, the tour organisers, having more consideration for their business and schedule than the riders’ safety, maintained the original route which led the tour over the high pass along icy roads and a snow tunnel.

Col de L'Iseran -- Stage 16, Tour de France July 9, 1963.

Photo:  innrng.com

Near the summit of L'Iseran TdF 1963

Photo:  innrng.com

Likely the most famous of the eight crossings of the L'Iseran during the Tour de France involved the amazing solo 100 kilometer breakaway by Italy’s Claudio Chiapucci, a true Mountain King.  Chiapucci has legendary mountain classification credentials -- one of only four men to win the TdF and Giro mountain classification in the same year (putting him in the enviable company of Fausto Coppi, Charly Gaul and Lucien Van Impe), and tied with Gino Bartali with the most Giro mountain classification wins (7).  With 100 kilometers to go on July 18, 1992’s TdF Stage 13, Chiapucci did one of his signature (though sometimes ill-advised) breakaways.  However, on this day the peloton mistakenly ignored Chiapucci who burned over seven cols, including the highest of them all, L'Iseran, on his way to a 00:01:34 stage win.  Chiapuccu was second in that year’s Tour to Miguel Induran who won his second of an unbelievable five straight Tours de France.

Claudio Chiapucci (KOM jersey) and Miguel Indurain (leader’s jersey).  Indurain is the 1991 & 1992 TdF

mountain classification winner.

Photo:  cyclingweekly.com